Maastricht

On Saturday, I had the pleasure of a solo mom's day out.  Doug watched the kids, and I took a 7:00AM train to Maastricht, a town in the very, very south of Holland that I've wanted to visit since the moment we arrived here.  I watched the sun come up on the three-hour train ride, with a book, my knitting, a notepad and a big cup of coffee.

Coincidentally, I have FOUR Sara(h)'s to thank for inspiring this little excursion.  Sarah H., a BI friend, had one clear set of parting words for me before I came to Amsterdam, which was to be sure to take time for myself and to explore with my kids, but also without them.  Sara F., a fellow ex pat mom here in Amsterdam, who took the first inspiring leap with a solo day trip to Paris a couple of months ago. Sara O., another friend from BI, who raved about Maastricht, which she discovered while in Luxembourg as an ex pat mom.  And Sara B., who always, always inspires me to "go deep" in all that I do. 

Maastricht is the oldest city in Holland, going back to Roman times when is served as an important economic center, military stronghold and religious center.  The long, rich history of Maastricht is still evident in the amazingly preserved architecture and street-scapes, so much so that the ENTIRE town has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Seventeenth-century street in Maastricht:

Saint Servaasburg, a 13th-century bridge that is now the primary pedestrian path crossing the River Maas.

The bridge is named after the first bishop of Maastricht in the 4th-century.  Saint Servaas was revered as such a major holy figure that the church eventually built over his tomb became a huge pilgrimage site and major beneficiary of Charlemagne himself.

Saint Servaas Basilica:

The Basilica is really, really old, and a building of extraordinary Gothic architecture. In the courtyard pictured above, archeological explorations in the 1980's found old Roman walls of the original church from around 350AD (when Saint Servaas was bishop) as well as tombs of various ecclesiastics and pilgrims throughout the centuries (particularly the 4th-11th century when pilgrimages to the site were at an all time high).

In the basement of the basilica, at the entrance to the crypt of Saint Servaas, one can see where the entire threshold has been worn away by the feet of pilgrims since the 8th century; now you have to step over a hole.

Below is one of the finds from these excavations:  the alb (the long white robe worn by clerics) of Saint Servass, which dates back to 384AD.

There are a number of large town squares in Maastricht, all lined with resturants, bars and cafes, and usually adjacent to an improtant, historic church or two.

Below, is a photo of Vrijthof, the square in front of Saint Servaas Basilica, which is one of the more popular squares, with lively cafe culture and nightlife.  It turned out to be the perfect place for lunch.

Vrijthof Square (Saint Servaas, on the right).

Centuries and centuries ago, Vrijthof square used to be a huge town cemetery located just outside the (then) city walls. Many of the old medieval fortification walls are still standing and you can walk around the city along top of them (perhaps this summer with the kids).  Vrijthof square is also where they hold a wildly popular annual food festival, and Maastricht being known for its fabulous restaurants and wine scene.

If you check out anything on this blog posting, take a look at this video of a (very) young trumpet player alongside André Rieu, the famous violinist and conductor from Maastricht.  Here, they're playing together  in Vrijthof square. Sara O. sent me the link months ago.  Melissa Venema with Andre Rieu in the Vrijthof

Maastricht is full of churches, most built between the 11th and 17th-centuries.  The other significant landmark church I visited on Saturday is Onze-Lieve Vrouwebasilick (Church of Our Lady), an incredibly well-preserved 12th-century Romanaseque building (the style preceding the Gothic).  It's the oldest church in Maastricht.

 

Admittedly, I am not a religious person, but I spent a lot years studying the religious history of Europe and visiting churches and cathedrals all over the place (just ask Doug), and I never cease to be moved by the haunting sound of organ music in a towering, dark cathedral.  It seemed fitting that Onze-Lieve Vrouwebasilick was my first stop on Saturday morning, where the organ player happened to be practicing, and I sat for moment, grateful for a day alone, exploring.

There are, in fact, so many (very old) churches in Maastricht that some were falling into disrepair from lack of use and lack of of congregations.  Several groups and organizations came forward with creative ideas to help save them, and this one blew my mind.  It's a 700-year old Dominican church that has been converted into a bookstore--I can't think of a better pairing of my interests!  

At their own cost, the owners of the bookstore have joined efforts with the city to restore the church to its original condition as much as possible, including the uncovering (and restoring) of ceiling and wall frescoes from the middle ages.

I ran out of time to personally visit Kruisherenhotel Maastricht , but it is 15th-century monastery and church that was converted into a high design hotel.

I ended my day with a nice dinner and a luxurious 3-hour train ride home, happy about my day, but also missing my family and feeling the excitement to get up the next morning and run a race with Abigail and Reese in Vondelpark (blog entry coming soon!).

If interested, here's a cool website about Maastricht, including a virtual tour of Saint Servaas Basilica and Onze-Lieve Vrouwebasilick (Church of Our Lady).