Thursday, March 13, 2014

Weekend in Edinburgh


Views from Edinburgh Castle:

Looking out onto the Firth on Forth.

View to New Town, built across the river after the plague ravaged the original city in the 17th century.



Reese, after walking the drawbridge over the old moat . . . wondering if dragons still exist.





Canon balls, 17th century.




This next dude is King Charles II, the guy who ruled England in the second half of the 17th century.  Much of my graduate work focused on the effects of his socio-religious policies on the "regular" people.

Lots of folks fled England during this time. Think witch hunts and heads rolling.  

Charming, isn't he?




King and Queen.

The Streets of Edinburgh:







Gothic monument to author Sir Walter Scott, a hero to the Scots.
Statue of economist Adam Smith, also a Scottish hero. 





Edinburgh Castle from below.

North Bridge.

George Street in New Town.

Giles Cathedral.

Giles Cathedral.

New Hunter rain boots, how Edinburgh is that?


Edinburgh Castle bathed in purple up-lighting.

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Independent Scotland?

I have a big, fat degree in 16th and 17th-century English history, but I am woefully ignorant of modern issues and developments concerning the United Kingdom.

As I learned while visiting Scotland last week, it turns out the United Kingdom isn't so united after all.  Scotland will put forth a referendum later this year to break away from the U.K, an historic push for independence in the modern era that would break up a centuries-old global power (made up of England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland).


The Scots move for independence hasn't gained much attention, partly because the number of Scots supporting secession is still relatively small (although many are undecided), but also because there is debate as to what secession would mean to the Scots, to Great Britain and to the world.

Opponents believe that if Scotland separates, it will cause such damage to the reputation of Great Britain that significant socioeconomic deterioration will result for all UK countries.  And for some, like the author of this editorial, Scottish independence (with potential separate entrance into the European Union) has dangerous international implications, encouraging other separatist movements (such as the Catalans in Spain, the Flemish in Belgium and the Basque separatists) to push forward with their agendas, thereby destabilizing the global economy.

Supporters of the "Yes Scotland" campaign disagree with many policies from London, particularly economic, and believe an independent Scotland and Scottish Parliament could provide better healthcare and childcare initiatives and policies.


Yet, polls find that most Scots don't identify themselves as Scots first, but as British or European, and so perhaps the independence measure is not inspiring the population to take up the "YES" banner.


Union Jack flag flying above Edinburgh Castle.

That said, Scottish pride is alive and well, and in all of our various travels, Doug and I noticed right away that Edinburgh has more shops and signs and marketing devoted to things associated with national culture and history than we'd seen anywhere else.

It's easy to get swept up in their bursting-at-the seams pride:  Abby now has a kilt; I have a tartan purse (with matching wellies, of course); and Reese got to take a ride on a double-decker bus.



The Royal Mile.


On the other hand, mixed up in all of the tartan goods, Scottish flags, "YesScotland" banners, kilts, whiskey stores, pubs, tweedy this-tweedy that, and the ubiquitous bag-pipers (I LOVE the sound of bagpipes) were the remains of signs with the "UK, OK" emblem.

I forgot to snap a photo of one of these signs in various storefronts, but here's what it looked like at its unveiling at the Tower of London a decade ago.

Photo courtesy of The Guardian.

This slogan and campaign were launched by British Commonwealth in 2002 when the UK suffered a severe decline in tourism following September 11 and foot-and-mouth disease.  The campaign still seems relevant, although now in context of preserving a "united" kingdom.

Meanwhile, as usual, much of the debate comes down to oil.  The coastline of Scotland is dotted with oil rigs, and both sides of the case for independence assert that the economics of oil support their cause.

Oil rigs in the Firth of Forth.  (Photo courtesy of Huffington Post)
In fact, a recent poll states that 70% of oil workers plan to vote in favor of independence.  As one scholar notes in the Huffington Post article cited above:

“The SNP [Scottish National Party] hopes an independent Scotland would be a Denmark with oil,” said Imber, former head of the School of International Relations. “Scotland has hopes to establish a position in the European Union and build on this type of Scandinavian model.”

Not surprisingly, big oil companies like Shell hope Scotland remains a part of the UK in order to protect their investment.

The industry is predicted to generate £57bn in tax revenue by 2018.

Finally, I can't finish this entry without pointing out that one of four countries making up the United Kingdom is missing from the Union Jack.  Because Wales was annexed before James I of England (James VI of Scotland) united Scotland and England in 1606, Wales was considered to already be a part of the English crown, not necessarily a separate entity (although they are now an independent country part of the UK like the others), and therefore left off the Union Jack.

The official flag of Wales is the bold red dragon, but the flag of its patron saint is yellow cross on black background.

With many people curious what the Union Jack will look like if Scotland secedes, some are advocating that Wales finally be incorporated.  In honor of my Welsh ancestry, I say YES!


Saturday, March 1, 2014

Into the Scottish Heartland

It seems crazy, even to us, but the kids and I "popped" over to Scotland from Norway, where we spent the second week of Abby and Reese's school break.  As we're discovering, it seems as though one can get anywhere in Europe within 1-2 hours by plane, and for a reasonable price.

In the spirit of maximizing our travel while we're on this great, big adventure, I decided to tack on a "side trip" to Scotland, even though Doug had to return to work in Amsterdam. He re-joined us this weekend in Edinburgh but, first, the kids and I headed about an hour north of Edinburgh into the "heartland" of Scotland.

One of my afternoon runs took me straight into the glen . . .