Friday, May 8, 2015

Flying South

Holy sightseeing.  I mean that in the "Holy sightseeing, Batman" kind of way, since it's been a week of lots and lots of sightseeing.  And because much of our sightseeing has been to visit holy places.

There are over 3,000 mosques in Istanbul alone; we've now seen five of them.

We were very excited to fly south to the village of Kas on the Mediterranean and kick back in the sun for the second leg of our adventure in Turkey.

Turkish gulets are a wooden sailing vessel, unique to Turkey, developed as charter boats during the 1960's when Bodrum and other destinations on Aegean and Mediterranean Seas became super popular with tourists.

And so, we spent our first few days lost at sea.

Ahoy there, Abby and Reese!
















Tea time!!




When I climbed inside my kayak, I experienced the strongest pangs of homesickness I've had since moving to Amsterdam. And here I was in remote Turkey.  My heart swelled, and I missed the peacefulness of being on the water.  I missed Bainbridge and our house on the water.  I missed my lavender kayak that D got me for my birthday just after R was born, and I missed paddling our toddler kids to dinner at sunset.  I love you BI, and our dear friends who made it the first home-that-felt-like-home.  xxoo





Totally Talking Tile

I'm so smitten with the tile work in Turkey.  I love the design.  I love the colors. 

They're called Iznik tiles, after the small town where they were produced during the 15th and 16th centuries--the golden age of the Ottoman Empire.  They represent the artistic peak of the Empire, and a major technological innovation in world of ceramics.

Not many original Iznik tiles or ceramics remain; you can find them in mosques from this era and at Topkapi Palace--or at the British Museum in London.  Reproductions are for sale everywhere, of varying quality, but most hand-painted.

 Every bit of color in these photos is tile work.










Photo courtesy of Reese.  That's all tile up there.




Thursday, May 7, 2015

Time Out on The Bosphorus

We took a time out from all the sightseeing at least once a day, and we especially loved this playground overlooking the Bosphorus in Bebek.



Check out Turkish alphabet chart:









Istanbul Date Night - Turkish Bath

It's one of the top experiences in Turkey, to visit a traditional hamam for a soak, a scrub, and a bit of a pummeling.  We were game, if not a little clueless and intimidated.  We'd reserved treatments at the Aya Sofya Hamami, a restored 16th-century outbuilding to the cathedral-turned-mosque-turned museum, and quickly ushered off to the ladies and gents sections of the bath house.

It's such a foreign experience, even to most western spa frequenters, that the internet is full of how-to tips and guides so you know what to expect when visiting a traditional hamam.  All I've got to say is that once you get past the fact that all this action takes place on a marble slab in a beautiful domed room alongside other guests--as soon as you just go with it--you'll come out feeling like a whole new person and with a memory of a lifetime.

 
Needless to say, when we met up again we were anxious to trade stories about our hamam experience and also feeling weirdly hungry.  We settled into a restaurant on a quiet alley (unusual in Istanbul) and shared "testi kabob," a Turkish dish that is basically a meat and tomato ragout.  It was delicious and a bit of a show too.

 Step 1: Light the dish on fire.


 Step 2: Turn pot upside and tap it hard with a utensil to crack the vase.


 Step 3: Carefully remove cracked top.


Step 4:  Serve!

Oh, To Be a Sultan

I can only imagine what took place in this harem room at Topkapi Palace . . .


Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Mikla

Hung out in the trendy part of Istanbul tonight. If you ever find yourself in Istanbul, please go to Mikla on the roof of the Marmara Pera Hotel for dinner and the sunset.







Galata

Galata is the historic European neighborhood just north of the old city.  It is where merchants, especially Italians, settled and led a generally separate life from the Turks across the Golden Horn (see map).  The old European presence can still be seen today in the scattering of red roofs, a stark contrast to the grey marble mosques on the other side of the Horn.

When the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in the 15th century, it became a holy city for Muslims.  However, unlike other Europeans rulers who were burning heretics at the stake at this time (the Inquisition was in full swing), the Sultans tolerated Christians and Jews, many of the latter fleeing persecution in other parts of Europe.

The reason for this policy was totally practical, not a liberated sense of moral duty.  Trade thrived, with merchants from all over, and residents were less likely to rebel against Ottoman rule since everyone was making money.  It doesn't mean that everyone lived together peacefully all of the time (and there were plenty of Orthodox Christians executed over the years), but people tended to "agree to disagree."

Istanbul became the most international city in the world.  For centuries.


We started this day's walk from our hotel next to Topkapi Palace and headed to Galata Bridge, then over to Galata Tower (see map!).

As mentioned in previous entry, Galata Bridge is where all the ships came into port for centuries, and today continues to be a bustling fish market and the primary way to walk or drive over to Galata from the Sultanahmet.

Restaurants line the underside of the bridge and floating fish-sandwich restaurants line the quays next to it. Fishermen line the bridge, with their lines out.



The floating fish sandwich restaurants:




Tourists and locals, alike, flock to these restaurants where the food is affordable, and the meal is an experience. A raucous one.  Believe me.




Remember that "juice" I told you about?!!?





Galata Tower, built in 1348, was the tallest building in the city for centuries. Even today, it dominates the old European neighborhood.  We climbed to the top for 360 views.



Looking across the water, going left to right, you can see Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.  There's the Galata Bridge, and in the foreground, the characteristic red-tiled roofs of Galata.




We've had a stow-away on this trip, who has joined us for all our excursions.  Flat Niko (aka Flat Stanley) is an easy travel companion, so easy to tuck in the suitcase or in our pocket.  We love you Niko!  We'll have a FS montage coming soon!

 




Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Roman Footnote

The entire Empire would role over in its collective grave if they knew what short shrift I'm giving Roman vestiges in Istanbul.  They're are plenty, and if you only have the chance to see one it must be the stunning Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarniçi).  It was built in 532AD by Emperor Justinian as a water supply to the Grand Palace. The water was brought in via a system aqueducts (some of which can still be seen today) from the Black Sea.

Justinian took some of the columns from temple ruins, and therefore the some parts of the cistern are even older than 1,500 years.

Positively stunning.